On May 8, 2025, Pope Leo XIV made a bold first impression on the Central Loggia of St. Peter’s Basilica—not just with his words, but with his wardrobe. In sharp contrast to the minimalist style of his predecessor, Pope Francis, Leo appeared in a striking red satin shoulder cape (mozetta) embroidered with gold, a burgundy stola, and a gold cross suspended from a double-wrapped silk cord.
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Gone was the simple white cassock and silver cross emblematic of Francis’s papacy. In its place stood a vivid return to the elaborate garments associated with traditional papal attire—a move that has sparked conversation and speculation across the Catholic world.
A Return to Tradition or Just Personal Style?
For liturgical fashion observers and traditionalist Catholics alike, Leo’s wardrobe choices signal more than aesthetic preference. His use of gold embroidery, rich colors, and historic garments mirrors the papal styles of Pope Benedict XVI and Pope John Paul II—both known for their reverence for tradition in appearance and practice.
In his first weeks as pontiff, Pope Leo XIV has subtly introduced other traditional elements, including lace-trimmed albs, cufflinks, and even the once-standard white papal trousers—details largely abandoned under Pope Francis’s simpler approach.
Traditional Attire as a Reflection of Ideology
While fashion may seem a superficial concern, many within the Church view Pope Leo XIV’s sartorial choices as reflective of his theological and ideological leanings. Where Pope Francis emphasized simplicity, humility, and informality, Leo’s adoption of ceremonial dress suggests a potential return to more traditional liturgical and doctrinal approaches.
Rev. John Walk, a professor of Church Communication at the Pontifical University of the Holy Cross in Rome, notes, “Leo’s fashion mirrors the formality of Benedict XVI and John Paul II. It’s a deliberate signal of respect for tradition.”
Latin, Liturgy, and a Conservative Tilt?
Pope Leo’s reverence for tradition doesn’t stop at fashion. He has shown fluency in Latin—using it during Sunday Angelus prayers—and appears more open to traditional forms of worship, including the Latin Mass. This has encouraged traditionalist Catholics, many of whom felt alienated by Pope Francis’s restrictions on the Tridentine Mass.
However, leading theologian Massimo Faggioli of Villanova University urges caution. “While Leo’s public appearance is more traditional, we don’t yet know how that will translate into governance,” he says. “American conservatives are enthusiastic, but it’s still early.”
Inaugural Mass: Clothing as a Statement
Leo’s inaugural Mass on May 18 offered further visual confirmation of his preferences. When sprinkling holy water on the congregation, cufflinks were visible—rarely worn by Pope Francis. He wore a full traditional ensemble: red mozetta, stole, amice (neck wrap), alb (white robe), and a cincture (rope belt). These garments, once staples of papal liturgy, were largely absent during Francis’s papacy.
Most notably, Leo has transitioned from the black pants favored by Francis to traditional white papal trousers, a detail celebrated by liturgical purists.
Embracing Tradition in Gesture, Too
Beyond garments, Pope Leo XIV has reintroduced long-standing papal customs. One key example is the baciamano—the kissing of the pope’s ring. Pope Francis often discouraged or avoided the practice. Pope Leo, on the other hand, has embraced it, viewing it as a sign of reverence for the papal office.
These acts suggest that Leo may be interested in restoring formalities associated with the papacy—formalities which, to many, symbolize continuity with the Church’s historical identity.
Will Leo XIV Move into the Apostolic Palace?
Another open question is whether Pope Leo XIV will reverse Francis’s decision to reside in the simpler Domus Sanctae Marthae rather than the Apostolic Palace. Leo’s embrace of tradition in other areas hints he may be open to returning to the papal apartment—another symbolic shift with broader implications.
Not Everyone Sees Change as Necessary
Some Church leaders and observers caution against reading too much into papal fashion. Rev. Castro Prudencio, a Catholic priest and commentator, argues, “Francis’s simplicity reflected the Church’s mission to serve, not to rule. Focusing on vestments misses the point of spiritual leadership.”
Conclusion: Fashion as a Window to the Future
As Pope Leo XIV begins his pontificate, the world is watching—closely. Will his embrace of traditional papal fashion usher in broader conservative reforms in Church doctrine, liturgy, and leadership? Or is it simply a personal preference, unlinked to policy?
Only time will tell. But one thing is certain: under Pope Leo XIV, the papacy is once again drawing global attention to the power of symbols, tradition, and the fine details of dress in shaping the identity of the Roman Catholic Church.